<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><mets:mets xmlns:mets="http://www.loc.gov/METS/" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:dcterms="http://purl.org/dc/terms/" xmlns:mads="http://www.loc.gov/mads/" xmlns:metsRights="http://cosimo.stanford.edu/sdr/metsrights/" xmlns:suj="http://www.theses.fr/namespace/sujets" xmlns:tef="http://www.abes.fr/abes/documents/tef" xmlns:tefextension="http://www.abes.fr/abes/documents/tefextension" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance" xsi:schemaLocation="http://www.loc.gov/METS/ http://www.abes.fr/abes/documents/tef/recommandation/tef_schemas.xsd">
<mets:metsHdr CREATEDATE="2019-10-31T15:48:10" ID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.METS_HEADER" LASTMODDATE="2025-04-17T03:14:30Z" RECORDSTATUS="valide">
<mets:agent ROLE="CREATOR">
<mets:name/>
<mets:note>Note</mets:note>
</mets:agent>
<mets:agent ROLE="DISSEMINATOR">
<mets:name>ABES</mets:name>
</mets:agent>
<mets:altRecordID ID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.METS_HEADER.ALTERNATE" TYPE=""/>
</mets:metsHdr>
<mets:dmdSec ID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.DESCRIPTION_BIBLIOGRAPHIQUE">
<mets:mdWrap MDTYPE="OTHER" OTHERMDTYPE="tef_desc_these">
<mets:xmlData>
<tef:thesisRecord>
<dc:title xml:lang="fr">« Tissus et vêtements Karen (Pwa Ka Nyaw) » : du tissage aux usages, continuités et transformations dans deux villages du nord de la Thaïlande</dc:title>
<dcterms:alternative xml:lang="en">« Karen fabrics and clothing (Pwa Ka Nyaw) » : from weaving to uses, continuities and transformations in two villages in northerm Thailand</dcterms:alternative>
<dc:subject xml:lang="fr">Ethnologie</dc:subject>
<dc:subject xml:lang="fr">Thaïlande</dc:subject>
<dc:subject xml:lang="fr">Birmanie</dc:subject>
<dc:subject xml:lang="fr">Karen (peuple d’Asie du Sud-est)</dc:subject>
<dc:subject xml:lang="fr">Textiles et tissus</dc:subject>
<dc:subject xml:lang="fr">Vêtements</dc:subject>
<dc:subject xml:lang="fr">Tissage</dc:subject>
<dc:subject xml:lang="en">Ethnology</dc:subject>
<dc:subject xml:lang="en">Thailand</dc:subject>
<dc:subject xml:lang="en">Burma</dc:subject>
<dc:subject xml:lang="en">Karen (people of Southeast Asia)</dc:subject>
<dc:subject xml:lang="en">Textiles &amp; Fabrics</dc:subject>
<dc:subject xml:lang="en">Clothing</dc:subject>
<dc:subject xml:lang="en">Weaving</dc:subject>
<dc:subject xsi:type="dcterms:DDC">391</dc:subject>
<dc:subject xsi:type="dcterms:DDC">394</dc:subject>
<dc:subject xsi:type="dcterms:DDC">305.895</dc:subject>
<tef:sujetRameau xml:lang="fr">
<tef:vedetteRameauNomCommun>
<tef:elementdEntree autoriteExterne="027733645" autoriteSource="Sudoc">Karen (peuple d'Asie du Sud-Est)</tef:elementdEntree>
<tef:subdivision autoriteExterne="027239640" autoriteSource="Sudoc" type="subdivisionDeSujet">Moeurs et coutumes</tef:subdivision>
<tef:subdivision autoriteExterne="028207270" autoriteSource="Sudoc" type="subdivisionGeographique">Thaïlande (nord)</tef:subdivision>
</tef:vedetteRameauNomCommun>
<tef:vedetteRameauNomCommun>
<tef:elementdEntree autoriteExterne="027733645" autoriteSource="Sudoc">Karen (peuple d'Asie du Sud-Est)</tef:elementdEntree>
<tef:subdivision autoriteExterne="027286525" autoriteSource="Sudoc" type="subdivisionDeSujet">Costume</tef:subdivision>
<tef:subdivision autoriteExterne="028207270" autoriteSource="Sudoc" type="subdivisionGeographique">Thaïlande (nord)</tef:subdivision>
</tef:vedetteRameauNomCommun>
<tef:vedetteRameauNomCommun>
<tef:elementdEntree autoriteExterne="027637425" autoriteSource="Sudoc">Vêtements</tef:elementdEntree>
<tef:subdivision autoriteExterne="269230165" autoriteSource="Sudoc" type="subdivisionDeSujet">Société</tef:subdivision>
<tef:subdivision autoriteExterne="028207270" autoriteSource="Sudoc" type="subdivisionGeographique">Thaïlande (nord)</tef:subdivision>
</tef:vedetteRameauNomCommun>
</tef:sujetRameau>
<dcterms:abstract xml:lang="fr">L’histoire de la Thaïlande, et sa politique d’intégration des «Montagnards», expliquent la spécificité de la situation des Karen sur le territoire national. Ces derniers ne forment pas un groupe homogène, comme le montre mon ethnographie. A partir, et par la comparaison de deux villages sgaw karen, j’appréhende le vêtement karen et la structure des garde-robes comme révélateurs de «l’identité» de ces populations qui se revendiquent à la fois Karen et Thaïlandaises. Ce qui fait le vêtement karen, les règles internes à la culture karen et les influences extérieures, se dégagent de l’analyse technologique et de la typologie qui en découle. Le processus de constitution des garde-robes, au quotidien et en contexte cérémoniel, mettent en exergue la place centrale de la femme. Le prisme du vêtement nous révèle une société attachée à la continuité des générations et intégrée dans la société thaïlandaise dont elle adopte, en partie, les codes.</dcterms:abstract>
<dcterms:abstract xml:lang="en">The history of Thailand and its integration policy for the «people of the Mountains» account for the specific situation of the Karen on the national territory. As my ethnologic study shows, these people do not constitute a homogeneous group. Taking as a starting point the comparison between two sgaw villages, I consider the Karen garment and the structure of the wardrobes as revealing the identity of these people who claim to be both Karen and Thai. The technological analysis and the ensuing typology outline what characterizes the Karen garment, the internal rules within the Karen culture and the external influences. The process of the development of the wardrobes, in daily use and in ceremonies, highlights the central position of women. Through the prism of the garment, is revealed a society attached to the succession of generations and integrated into the Thai society whose codes it partly adopts.</dcterms:abstract>
<dc:type>Electronic Thesis or Dissertation</dc:type>
<dc:type xsi:type="dcterms:DCMIType">Text</dc:type>
<dc:language xsi:type="dcterms:RFC3066">fr</dc:language>
</tef:thesisRecord>
</mets:xmlData>
</mets:mdWrap>
</mets:dmdSec>
<mets:dmdSec ID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_COMPLETE.DESCRIPTION.EDITION_ARCHIVAGE">
<mets:mdWrap MDTYPE="OTHER" OTHERMDTYPE="tef_desc_edition">
<mets:xmlData>
<tef:edition>
<dcterms:medium xsi:type="dcterms:IMT">PDF</dcterms:medium>
<dcterms:extent>11140988</dcterms:extent>
<dc:identifier xsi:type="dcterms:URI">https://publication-theses.unistra.fr/restreint/theses_doctorat/2019/Binet_Isabelle_2019_ED519.pdf</dc:identifier>
<tef:editeur>
<tef:nom>Université de Strasbourg</tef:nom>
<tef:place>Strasbourg</tef:place>
</tef:editeur>
<dcterms:issued xsi:type="dcterms:W3CDTF">2020-12-31</dcterms:issued>
</tef:edition>
</mets:xmlData>
</mets:mdWrap>
</mets:dmdSec>
<mets:dmdSec ID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_INCOMPLETE_1.DESCRIPTION.EDITION_1">
<mets:mdWrap MDTYPE="OTHER" OTHERMDTYPE="tef_desc_edition">
<mets:xmlData>
<tef:edition>
<dcterms:medium xsi:type="dcterms:IMT">application/pdf</dcterms:medium>
<dcterms:extent>9806287</dcterms:extent>
<dc:identifier xsi:type="dcterms:URI">https://publication-theses.unistra.fr/public/theses_doctorat/2019/Binet_Isabelle_2019_ED519_INC.pdf</dc:identifier>
<dc:identifier xsi:type="dcterms:URI"/>
<dc:identifier xsi:type="dcterms:URI">https://theses.hal.science/tel-02457422</dc:identifier>
<dc:identifier xsi:type="dcterms:URI">https://theses.hal.science/tel-02457422</dc:identifier>
<dc:identifier xsi:type="dcterms:URI">https://theses.fr/2019STRAG029/abes</dc:identifier>
<dc:identifier xsi:type="dcterms:URI">https://theses.hal.science/tel-02457422</dc:identifier>
<dc:identifier xsi:type="dcterms:URI">https://theses.hal.science/tel-02457422</dc:identifier>
<dc:identifier xsi:type="dcterms:URI">https://theses.hal.science/tel-02457422</dc:identifier>
</tef:edition>
</mets:xmlData>
</mets:mdWrap>
</mets:dmdSec>
<mets:dmdSec ID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_INCOMPLETE_1.DESCRIPTION">
<mets:mdWrap MDTYPE="OTHER" OTHERMDTYPE="tef_desc_version">
<mets:xmlData>
<tef:version>
<tef:manque>
<tef:noteVersion>Annexes</tef:noteVersion>
</tef:manque>
</tef:version>
</mets:xmlData>
</mets:mdWrap>
</mets:dmdSec>
<mets:amdSec>
<mets:techMD ID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.ADMINISTRATION">
<mets:mdWrap MDTYPE="OTHER" OTHERMDTYPE="tef_admin_these">
<mets:xmlData>
<tef:thesisAdmin>
<tef:auteur>
<tef:nom>Binet</tef:nom>
<tef:prenom>Isabelle</tef:prenom>
<tef:nomDeNaissance>Binet</tef:nomDeNaissance>
<tef:dateNaissance>1986-11-15</tef:dateNaissance>
<tef:nationalite scheme="ISO-3166-1">FR</tef:nationalite>
<tef:autoriteExterne autoriteSource="Sudoc">241737850</tef:autoriteExterne>
</tef:auteur>
<dc:identifier xsi:type="tef:nationalThesisPID">https://theses.fr/2019STRAG029</dc:identifier>
<dc:identifier xsi:type="tef:NNT">2019STRAG029</dc:identifier>
<dc:identifier xsi:type="tef:DOI">https://doi.org/10.70675/5060c38czb804z49daza0c6za95c33ba80fa</dc:identifier>
<dcterms:dateAccepted xsi:type="dcterms:W3CDTF">2019-10-16</dcterms:dateAccepted>
<tef:thesis.degree>
<tef:thesis.degree.discipline xml:lang="fr">Ethnologie</tef:thesis.degree.discipline>
<tef:thesis.degree.grantor>
<tef:nom>Strasbourg</tef:nom>
<tef:autoriteExterne autoriteSource="Sudoc">131056549</tef:autoriteExterne>
</tef:thesis.degree.grantor>
<tef:thesis.degree.level>Doctorat</tef:thesis.degree.level>
<tef:thesis.degree.name xml:lang="fr">Docteur es</tef:thesis.degree.name>
</tef:thesis.degree>
<tef:theseSurTravaux>non</tef:theseSurTravaux>
<tef:avisJury>oui</tef:avisJury>
<tef:directeurThese>
<tef:nom>Monnerie</tef:nom>
<tef:prenom>Denis</tef:prenom>
<tef:autoriteInterne>MADS_DIRECTEUR_DE_THESE_1</tef:autoriteInterne>
<tef:autoriteExterne autoriteSource="Sudoc">034040846</tef:autoriteExterne>
</tef:directeurThese>
<tef:presidentJury>
<tef:nom>Brac de La Perrière</tef:nom>
<tef:prenom>Bénédicte</tef:prenom>
<tef:autoriteInterne>MADS_PRESIDENT_DU_JURY</tef:autoriteInterne>
<tef:autoriteExterne autoriteSource="Sudoc">029981980</tef:autoriteExterne>
</tef:presidentJury>
<tef:membreJury>
<tef:nom>Vallard</tef:nom>
<tef:prenom>Annabel</tef:prenom>
<tef:autoriteInterne>MADS_MEMBRE_DU_JURY_1</tef:autoriteInterne>
<tef:autoriteExterne autoriteSource="Sudoc">095642250</tef:autoriteExterne>
</tef:membreJury>
<tef:rapporteur>
<tef:nom>Formoso</tef:nom>
<tef:prenom>Bernard</tef:prenom>
<tef:autoriteInterne>MADS_RAPPORTEUR_1</tef:autoriteInterne>
<tef:autoriteExterne autoriteSource="Sudoc">029018188</tef:autoriteExterne>
</tef:rapporteur>
<tef:rapporteur>
<tef:nom>Chave-Dartoen</tef:nom>
<tef:prenom>Sophie</tef:prenom>
<tef:autoriteInterne>MADS_RAPPORTEUR_2</tef:autoriteInterne>
<tef:autoriteExterne autoriteSource="Sudoc">080188338</tef:autoriteExterne>
</tef:rapporteur>
<tef:ecoleDoctorale>
<tef:nom>École doctorale Sciences humaines et sociales – Perspectives européennes (Strasbourg ; 2009-....)</tef:nom>
<tef:autoriteInterne>MADS_ECOLE_DOCTORALE_1</tef:autoriteInterne>
<tef:autoriteExterne autoriteSource="Sudoc">156496216</tef:autoriteExterne>
</tef:ecoleDoctorale>
<tef:partenaireRecherche type="laboratoire">
<tef:nom>Dynamiques européennes (Strasbourg ; 2014-2021)</tef:nom>
<tef:autoriteInterne>MADS_PARTENAIRE_DE_RECHERCHE_1</tef:autoriteInterne>
<tef:autoriteExterne autoriteSource="Sudoc">184741912</tef:autoriteExterne>
<tef:autoriteExterne autoriteSource="labTEL">266846</tef:autoriteExterne>
</tef:partenaireRecherche>
<tef:oaiSetSpec>ddc:390</tef:oaiSetSpec>
<tef:oaiSetSpec>ddc:300</tef:oaiSetSpec>
<tef:MADSAuthority authorityID="MADS_DIRECTEUR_DE_THESE_1" type="personal">
<tef:personMADS>
<mads:namePart type="family">Monnerie</mads:namePart>
<mads:namePart type="given">Denis</mads:namePart>
</tef:personMADS>
</tef:MADSAuthority>
<tef:MADSAuthority authorityID="MADS_PRESIDENT_DU_JURY" type="personal">
<tef:personMADS>
<mads:namePart type="family">Brac de La Perrière</mads:namePart>
<mads:namePart type="given">Bénédicte</mads:namePart>
</tef:personMADS>
</tef:MADSAuthority>
<tef:MADSAuthority authorityID="MADS_MEMBRE_DU_JURY_1" type="personal">
<tef:personMADS>
<mads:namePart type="family">Vallard</mads:namePart>
<mads:namePart type="given">Annabel</mads:namePart>
</tef:personMADS>
</tef:MADSAuthority>
<tef:MADSAuthority authorityID="MADS_RAPPORTEUR_1" type="personal">
<tef:personMADS>
<mads:namePart type="family">Formoso</mads:namePart>
<mads:namePart type="given">Bernard</mads:namePart>
</tef:personMADS>
</tef:MADSAuthority>
<tef:MADSAuthority authorityID="MADS_RAPPORTEUR_2" type="personal">
<tef:personMADS>
<mads:namePart type="family">Chave-Dartoen</mads:namePart>
<mads:namePart type="given">Sophie</mads:namePart>
</tef:personMADS>
</tef:MADSAuthority>
<tef:MADSAuthority authorityID="MADS_ECOLE_DOCTORALE_1" type="corporate">
<tef:personMADS>
<mads:namePart type="family">École doctorale Sciences humaines et sociales – Perspectives européennes (Strasbourg ; 2009-....)</mads:namePart>
</tef:personMADS>
</tef:MADSAuthority>
<tef:MADSAuthority authorityID="MADS_PARTENAIRE_DE_RECHERCHE_1" type="corporate">
<tef:personMADS>
<mads:namePart type="family">Dynamiques européennes (Strasbourg)</mads:namePart>
</tef:personMADS>
</tef:MADSAuthority>
</tef:thesisAdmin>
</mets:xmlData>
</mets:mdWrap>
</mets:techMD>
<mets:techMD ID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_COMPLETE.EDITION_ARCHIVAGE.TECH_FICHIER.DOSSIER_1.DOSSIER_1.FICHIER_1">
<mets:mdWrap MDTYPE="OTHER" OTHERMDTYPE="tef_tech_fichier">
<mets:xmlData>
<tef:meta_fichier>
<tef:formatFichier>PDF</tef:formatFichier>
<tef:taille>11140988</tef:taille>
</tef:meta_fichier>
</mets:xmlData>
</mets:mdWrap>
</mets:techMD>
<mets:rightsMD ID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.DROITS_UNIVERSITE">
<mets:mdWrap MDTYPE="OTHER" OTHERMDTYPE="tef_droits_etablissement_these">
<mets:xmlData>
<metsRights:RightsDeclarationMD RIGHTSCATEGORY="CONTRACTUAL">
<metsRights:Context CONTEXTCLASS="GENERAL PUBLIC">
<metsRights:Permissions COPY="false" DELETE="false" DISPLAY="true" DUPLICATE="true" MODIFY="false" PRINT="false"/>
</metsRights:Context>
<metsRights:Context CONTEXTCLASS="INSTITUTIONAL AFFILIATE">
<metsRights:Permissions COPY="false" DELETE="false" DISPLAY="true" DUPLICATE="true" MODIFY="false" PRINT="false"/>
</metsRights:Context>
</metsRights:RightsDeclarationMD>
</mets:xmlData>
</mets:mdWrap>
</mets:rightsMD>
<mets:rightsMD ID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.DROITS_DOCTORANT">
<mets:mdWrap MDTYPE="OTHER" OTHERMDTYPE="tef_droits_auteur_these">
<mets:xmlData>
<metsRights:RightsDeclarationMD RIGHTSCATEGORY="CONTRACTUAL">
<metsRights:Context CONTEXTCLASS="GENERAL PUBLIC">
<metsRights:Permissions COPY="false" DELETE="false" DISPLAY="true" DUPLICATE="true" MODIFY="false" PRINT="false"/>
</metsRights:Context>
<metsRights:Context CONTEXTCLASS="INSTITUTIONAL AFFILIATE">
<metsRights:Permissions COPY="false" DELETE="false" DISPLAY="true" DUPLICATE="true" MODIFY="false" PRINT="false"/>
</metsRights:Context>
</metsRights:RightsDeclarationMD>
</mets:xmlData>
</mets:mdWrap>
</mets:rightsMD>
<mets:rightsMD ID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_COMPLETE.DROITS">
<mets:mdWrap MDTYPE="OTHER" OTHERMDTYPE="tef_droits_version">
<mets:xmlData>
<metsRights:RightsDeclarationMD RIGHTSCATEGORY="CONTRACTUAL">
<metsRights:Context CONTEXTCLASS="GENERAL PUBLIC">
<metsRights:Permissions COPY="false" DELETE="false" DISPLAY="false" DUPLICATE="false" MODIFY="false" PRINT="false"/>
</metsRights:Context>
<metsRights:Context CONTEXTCLASS="INSTITUTIONAL AFFILIATE">
<metsRights:Permissions COPY="false" DELETE="false" DISPLAY="true" DUPLICATE="true" MODIFY="false" PRINT="false"/>
</metsRights:Context>
</metsRights:RightsDeclarationMD>
</mets:xmlData>
</mets:mdWrap>
</mets:rightsMD>
<mets:rightsMD ID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_INCOMPLETE_1.DROITS">
<mets:mdWrap MDTYPE="OTHER" OTHERMDTYPE="tef_droits_version">
<mets:xmlData>
<metsRights:RightsDeclarationMD>
<metsRights:Context CONTEXTCLASS="GENERAL PUBLIC">
<metsRights:Permissions COPY="false" DELETE="false" DISPLAY="true" DUPLICATE="true" MODIFY="false" PRINT="false"/>
</metsRights:Context>
<metsRights:Context CONTEXTCLASS="INSTITUTIONAL AFFILIATE">
<metsRights:Permissions COPY="false" DELETE="false" DISPLAY="true" DUPLICATE="true" MODIFY="false" PRINT="false"/>
</metsRights:Context>
</metsRights:RightsDeclarationMD>
</mets:xmlData>
</mets:mdWrap>
</mets:rightsMD>
</mets:amdSec>
<mets:fileSec>
<mets:fileGrp ID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_COMPLETE.EDITION_ARCHIVAGE.FILEGRP" USE="archive">
<mets:file ADMID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_COMPLETE.EDITION_ARCHIVAGE.TECH_FICHIER.DOSSIER_1.DOSSIER_1.FICHIER_1" ID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_COMPLETE.EDITION_ARCHIVAGE.DOSSIER_1.DOSSIER_1.FICHIER_1" SEQ="1">
<mets:FLocat LOCTYPE="URL" xlink:href="STRA/THESE_128910/document/0/0/Binet_Isabelle_2019_ED519_A.pdf"/>
</mets:file>
</mets:fileGrp>
</mets:fileSec>
<mets:structMap TYPE="logical">
<mets:div ADMID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.ADMINISTRATION ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.DROITS_UNIVERSITE ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.DROITS_DOCTORANT" CONTENTIDS="CONTENTIDS.ABES.STAR.THESE_128910" DMDID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.DESCRIPTION_BIBLIOGRAPHIQUE" TYPE="THESE">
<mets:div ADMID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_COMPLETE.DROITS" CONTENTIDS="CONTENTIDS.ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_COMPLETE" TYPE="VERSION_COMPLETE">
<mets:div CONTENTIDS="CONTENTIDS.ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_COMPLETE.EDITION_ARCHIVAGE" DMDID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_COMPLETE.DESCRIPTION.EDITION_ARCHIVAGE" TYPE="EDITION">
<mets:fptr FILEID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_COMPLETE.EDITION_ARCHIVAGE.FILEGRP"/>
</mets:div>
</mets:div>
<mets:div ADMID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_INCOMPLETE_1.DROITS" CONTENTIDS="CONTENTIDS.ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_INCOMPLETE_1" DMDID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_INCOMPLETE_1.DESCRIPTION" TYPE="VERSION_INCOMPLETE">
<mets:div CONTENTIDS="CONTENTIDS.ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_INCOMPLETE_1.EDITION_1" DMDID="ABES.STAR.THESE_128910.VERSION_INCOMPLETE_1.DESCRIPTION.EDITION_1" TYPE="EDITION"/>
</mets:div>
</mets:div>
</mets:structMap>
</mets:mets>